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HOW LONG DO MY REINS NEED TO BE ?

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i have hundreds of pairs of reins.
i have worked with many different breeds of horses.

i have worked many different disciplines and styles of riding with them.
it is important to have the proper reins to get the job done well.

especially when training, the wrong reins can sabotage your efforts quickly.

these are the general rules i go by when deciding which reins to put on which bridle
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questions  ?  sarashalda@aol.com


English riders

huntseat.
FLUID STRAIGHT DEPENDABLE HUNT SEAT ...   webassets/DSC_0009.JPG    World -- 5th Junior Hunter Under ...  ... World Champion in Hunter Under ...

 
here are the style options:

Laced Reins. Widths 5'8" and 3'4"      Horson Laced Reins 
laced reins

laced reins  always made of leather come in different widths.
1/2 inch  5/8  or 3/4
everyone has a different preference for what they like for different reasons.
some like a wider rein because it is easier for their arthritis in their hands.
all my laced english reins are 1/2 inch.
they are all at least 64 inches long no matter what breed I'm riding.

Stübben 5-Plaited Leather Reins  Reins and Rein Accessories  Sabre 7 Strand Plaited Reins
plaited reins

plaited reins are 5, 6, 7, or 8 strands all braided together.
when broken in they have a super soft super grippie feel.
i love them if i can find them thin enough.
they require more time to clean than laced reins.




Passier Web Reins  Vespucci Web Reins  Collegiate Cont Web Reins

web reins
more casual. usually made of cotton or poly blend.
people are attracted to the super soft feel.
most have grip aids every five inches or so depending on the brand.
some have martingale stop and some do not.
i cut mine off all my reins.
lots of lengths, i prefer 64+ if i can find them.
i dont use web reins very often because they are too hard to clean.




rubber_reins.jpg 05-Nov-2005 19:11 ...  Rubber reins - Raised finished  Semi-rubber Reins  Dobert Leather Rubber Reins  Tory Competition Rubber Reins ...
rubber reins
i often see these reins on eventing horses.
they are super grippie and easy to clean.
awesome colors and lots of length options.
i personally do not use rubber reins.
my horses are all very light in the mouth.
i hold my reins in the end of my finger tips gently.
i don't need the turbo gripping power of these reins.
but if you do..these are definitely the ones for you.



Plain Reins. Widths 5'8" and 3'4"  Plain leather rubber reins, ...   Jeffries 1/2" Plain Reins  Vespucci Rubber Grip Plain Reins  Collegiate Plain Reins

plain reins

plain reins are a preference for very light mouthed horses like mine.
i like them to feel like there is nothing there at all.
i use mine 64 inches long and 3/8 inches wide on all breeds.
they are super easy to clean.
they used to only be leather but now there are biothane and they are great too.
they come in all the standard widths 3/8,  1/2, 5/8,  3/4.
light or dark leather and Even colored biothane.

vaious other options


Plain Reins, Flat Braided, ... Rubber reins for holding on to   stubben rubber reins.  Kincade Pastel Rubber Grip Reins








saddleseat
CLYDESDALE-7.jpg  He is the reigning World Champion ...   2005 World Champion Park Saddle ...   World's Champion Five Gaited ... 


stay tuned.......

there are two types of reining.

direct reining also called plow reining, like you see many english riders use. pull of the left rein to make the horse go left and so on... and neck reining also called inderect reining....is when you pull both reins
 simutaniously in the direction you want to go. this is done usually holding the reins together in one hand western style. this is very different from direct reining,  and if your horse was started out direct reining and you now want to teach him indirect reining,  you may have a tough go of it it you are not a professonal trainer like me
 sara shalda. use these tips and suggestoins to help you in your pursuit or email me anytime

sarashalda@aol.com
bridless/sSarabridle.jpg
neck reining
lets start at the beginning because as a professional trainer i come accross  many horse that have all their problems caused by  impropper starting or breaking techniques,,,,so lets start at the beginning.
this may not seem like it is important to neck reining but it really is very important its the major reason most horses arent fluid because the miss the  following trainnig
#1
When I break a horse, I begin with the back.

The first day...the first time I step foot in the stirrup and get on...the first thing I do after sitting there a moment petting the horse and giving them a little treat and scratching session is ask them to back.

They are already very familiar with this feel of pulling pack on the reins and backing because I have already schooled the horse from the ground in this area, so they do it easily.  I only ask for one-step back.  I pull on the reins until they go that one-step, then I release the pull and pet them.

Repeat.  Repeat.  Repeat.You get the picture.

Each time I do this, and for that matter each time I ask a horse to do anything, I always try to do it with as little pressure as I can, wither it be a rein pull or a leg squeeze.

Each time you ask you horse for something, they will be more and more familiar with it, and you should be able to lighten the force each time.

This is a really important point. Please re-read the previous sentence many times.

It is crucial if you want to have a light flowing gently stepping horse they be sensitive and soft.

The only way to create a soft horse is to use soft cues and commands.

#   2

The second thing I do with a newly broke horse Or a new horse in my training program...is ask them to give to the bit. This requires no forward steps. Repeat This requires no forward steps. One of the biggest mistakes people make when they break their own horses is they immediately start walking forward as soon as their butts hit the saddle. Please don’t do this.  As soon as your horse start walking forward they start thinking about what is ahead of them and what to do next.  Please don’t do this  After you get the backing down, the next thing you should be thinking about is the head and neck and making it bend around to each side.  Begin with asking for only a slight give to a slight side pull.  Pull until you get a give, then immediately release and pet the neck to clearly show they did exactly what you wanted.  This is another really important step.  Please re read the previous sentence.

Each time you ask for a give make the horse reach a little tiny bit further than the time before.

Make sure however that you immediately release the pressure as soon as they obey
Never forget to pet them. alot.

I cannot put enough emphasis on  positive reinforcement  with a juvenile mind.
It seriously  is the number one way  to wreck your horse  is if you ruin their self-confidence.

Pet them.  Pet them.  Pet them.  Pet them.

Now after you have spent about 10 minutes backing And 10 minutes pulling on each side...

Put them away. When you get on them,  the next day repeat exactly what you did the day before
 but spend a bit less time on it...
This is because you need to leave some time to learn a new task.

Never add more than one new task a day.  Never.  On any age horse.

#   3

the beginning of neck reinng

Now on this second day ..after you have reviewed yesterday’s lesson,.. begin by adding leg pressure to the side you are pulling on...this is the beginning of neck reining training
 and it is critical

When you pull on the left rein ..the horse brings his head around to the left, ..
before you release the pressure...give a little squeeze with your left leg and heel.

apply this pressure until you feel 

your horse shift his weight to the right Away from your leg

you are not taking a step yet...not...not..just setting your horse up for it

Note

It is extremely important you adjust your pull when doing this  !

when you started out on this horse
you were direct reining.... you asked for the giving of the head
 you are pulled back to your hipbone...

stop this
you must now stop this practice to .properly begin neck reining
for proper neck reining...you must do the following

Once they bring their head around ...you squeeze you leg..  The pull with your hand must
come up against their neck... going to the direction ..you want them to lean...or shift their weight.
Professional Horse Training ...
 

Please  please please re-read the previous sentence .  10 times if you have to

It is crucial
your horse know how to do this standing still... before they ever.. take a single step
and this is why....

Once your horse starts walking,... your training takes on a new dimension ..because rhythm and synchronicity are involved....
Compound and complicated concepts... for any horse,.. much less a young one. 

Getting your horse to yield.. to rein and leg  pressure .. before they start walking
is the number one thing... people do wrong ...when training their young horses.

actually any age horse from what i see...

It is also absolutely essential ...for a good jog... because you just repeat ..these exact same maneuvers
 at the walk and at the jog....

If your horse doesn’t learn it standing, still ......they will not be able to do it at the walk.
If they can’t do it at the walk,... they will not be able to do it at the trot.

If a horse is not flexible and supple, ..they will never be able to go slow in any gait.
 

Once you get the head to give...Bring it all the way to your knee
 shift the horse weight to the opposite legs...
You are ready for the next step.

This one is easy...Because you are already there..The step is to the side

Away from the rein and leg

#   4

The new step....The next day ......add more leg and rein pressure,.. Until your horse not only leans.
Not only shifts his weight,...

but Actually takes a step to the side.

Only one-step.

Then immediately release pressure... and pet them alot
This is a biggie for your horse.

I sometimes spend 10 minutes... just on this one task alone....
After mastering these four basic tasks,
 simply add one more step each time.

Let the horse walk a little forward sometimes....
You have this choice each time you ask for
the head ...and squeeze the leg......
Or can go straight sideways ..or let them travel a little forward.
You will know when you and your horse... are ready for more forwardness....
Once you are solid in all these, 
it should be about a week later....keep encouraging forwardness ..and intigrate into your normal routine
intigrating into the western jog

You should have a good gas pedal on your horse by now....
You should be using a cluck to  alert the horse to move.

The horse should be 100 % confident in all lessons.....Now simply keep pressing the accelerator and clucking

Tell you get the trot.....Trot about 10 steps and stop....Put the reins down and pet the horse....
The first 10 steps at the trot need to have no pulling by you what so ever.

Let the horse trot any speed they want....You goal is to have the horse relax.

Repeat many times.

Trot 10 steps or 20..whatever..  And stop...pet the horse a lot

Repeat...Repeat...You get the picture..
fter you and your horse are relaxed with this...add the bending and flexing and giving exercises a little at a time.

Remember when you first asked for the very first give of the head the first day...?

On the first day of trotting do the exact same thing

Just ask for a little bend and immediately release !

Please re read and highlight the above sentence.  !

Once you introduce the gas pedal in to the picture,
 you and your horse will already have all the skills needed
 to jog slowly and quietly down the rail or trail.

Always remember........
When you very first ask your horse to do something new... only ask for a step or two
and always pet...pet...pet.....
Always treat them like they are gold....Soft and precious.

Questions...?  sarashalda@aol.com
a good horse trainer can do anyting
Her big horse, Bash’s is 19 hands ...  




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